Since the outbreak of the 1997 financial crisis, reports of economic, political, ethno-religious and military conflict in Indonesia have appeared regularly in the world's newspapers, giving the impression of a nation in chaos. To many, Indonesia is already a failed state.
But is the country pulling itself apart or reinventing itself?
Throughout East Asia, the winners of the past are willing to arouse discord in hopes of climbing back into power. Similarly, Indonesia is locked into a social arms race between the forces of the past and those whose support the new democracy of the future.